Wagah, India – Every sunset on the India-Pakistan border, crowds go wild and soldiers goose-step in a chest-puffing theatrical ritual symbolizing the countries’ antipathy 75 years after independence, but the display ends with a brisk, brotherly handshake.
Several hours before the ceremony, enthusiastic spectators begin trickling into sitting areas on either side of chunky iron gates separating the nuclear-armed Asian rivals at the Attari-Wagah frontier.